My time in Mexico has been an absolute dream of a trip that quite frankly the longest trip I’ve had, not planning much, just going with the flow and waiting out swells.
I got here and the first month I was here it was hardly over 4 feet so I decided to stay and surf some of the bigger swells that came around and slowly but surely we finally started seeing Mexico’s real potential!
4 months later haha!
This last month I decided I’d give Puerto Escondido a crack as it’s finally started to see some bigger swell again and the forecast honestly looked too good to pass it up so we got in the car, and drove for three days,
(you can’t drive at night here) cartels are pretty heavy in certain states… we finally got to Puerto and stayed for a month!
The second day being there I finally got to see the swell fill in and it was honestly the craziest beach break I’ve ever seen,10-12feet and just barreling so damn hard and super heavy …
Little to know I was about to score the wave of my life.
I paddled out and the first wave I committed to I got into was a right way up the beach at the peak formally called Farbar and I really had every expectation of how good the wave comes to life.
That wave isn’t allowed to be in this clip, unfortunately, but if you’re reading this, go to https://shortcircuit.movementmag.com/video/17 and vote!
The rest of the month we surfed really fun waves at Colorada as unfortunately the beach got closed by the police again due to Covid cases so it was pretty tough to get waves between 7 and 9 in the morning before the police pulled us out of the water.
Pretty devastating hahaha!
Viva La Mexico🇲🇽